The Little Women – celebrates the art of unconventional dressing as a powerful expression of modern femininity 

On Sustainable Fashion Day at Lakmé Fashion Week Summer/Resort 2020, Eka by designer Rina Singh presented an unconventional take on Telangana textiles in collaboration with the Telangana State Handloom Weavers Cooperative Society Ltd (TSCO). Stirred by the modern spirit of ‘Jo March’ from Louisa May Alcott’s 19th-century classic, ‘The Little Women’, Eka’s Autumn-Winter 2020 collection explores different paths to female self-actualisation with a deeply romantic aesthetic.

“I am excited and honoured to partner with TSCO to showcase the development of Telangana textiles at Lakme Fashion Week. It is a special region, the fabrics are one-of-a-kind and so dexterous in terms of the levels of skill involved. There is a lot of scopes to undertake craft-based projects in the area and bring these textiles to the global stage” – Rina explained.

With her extensive understanding of India and the modern world, Rina has worked with patterns, colour combinations and yarn blends that lend a commercially viable and contemporary look to the traditional product. Block print textiles, wool & wool-silk plaids and stripes, along with velvets and hand-painted embroideries have been presented in the brand’s signature, loosely shaped diaphanous dresses, pleated skirts, boxy jackets, oversized pea coats and tiered layers.

The designer has developed unconventional patterns with double and single ikat clusters of Kovalguddam, new blends with thigh-reeled tussar silk textile clusters from Mahadevpur and cotton textile weaves from Narayanpet. Another special addition is that of pure merino wool ikat, developed in the Pochampally handloom park to accessorise the collection. By focusing on methodology and skill up-gradation of weavers, these remodelled versions of traditional fabric are created with lighter yarns and denser count construction.

The AW20 collection celebrates the art of unconventional dressing as a powerful expression of modern femininity. Inspired by Jo March’s transformation from a young tomboy to a woman of poise, the collection merges Eka’s signature silhouettes with a new sense of exquisite detailing. The designer indulges an orchestral mix of silhouettes, textures and colours ranging from delicate lace, velvet layers and wool plaid and organza applique.

Making a confident entry on the ramp to close the show was internationally renowned tennis star, Sania Mirza who looked fabulous in a hand-painted and embroidered single hand-woven diamond Ikat cotton jacket with block printed 100 per cent silk lining with organza tie-ups. She wore this over a stylish printed spaghetti top and velvet wide-leg hand-embroidered trousers.

Garments are further enhanced with hand-painted renderings inspired by Austin artist, Starla Halfmann’s work. Unique botanicals and paisleys are interspersed with ikat patterns, adding a touch of opulence to the season. Metallic hand-knitted zardozi trims have been upcycled as delicate flowers and detailed inserts like collars, cuffs, plackets and embellished belts.

The ‘Eka’ label by Rina Singh’s collection called “Jo- the nonconformist” was a modern showcase of homegrown fabric, unseen patterns and detail, created with the textile from Telangana State Handloom Weavers Cooperative Society Ltd (TSCO).